Creality Spider V3 Thermistor. #140
Replies: 6 comments 16 replies
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If you are satisfied with the print quality with number 1 thermistor in the Marlin configuration, then just forget it and use it. Well, or wait until someone comes along who knows the thermistor number in the Spider V3. |
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So the issue is the hotend the Spider replaced would shut down. I assumed it was a thermistor issue. Googling people seem to be assuming standard 100K NTC 3950 thermistor. However not sure that thermistor is supported under Mriscoc so there is that... |
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Well, NTC means Negative Temperature Coefficient thermistor, more than 90% of thermistors have a resistance of 100K and a good part of them have beta 3950 so this doesn’t say much - their tables are different. MRiscoCProUI/Marlin/Configuration.h Lines 467 to 538 in 459f5b5 |
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this is the thermistor to get - HT-NTC-100k in the // R25 = 100 kOhm, beta25 = 4092 K, 4.7 kOhm pull-up, bed thermistorI made another thermistor table - theres a way to make your own tables, I did this because I knew I wasn't getting the correct temps. and they weren't correct at certain temps. near one of the temps I printed at, it was off by like 10 degrees. so I adjusted it in the table and called it my own. I'm not sure why the majority of thermistors say theyre 3950, yet the table says 4092?? |
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Okay update. Got it fully assembled. The good news. The hot end gets good and hot, reports what appear to be accurate temps via my non contact thermometer, So if I had to venture a guess, the included thermistor with the Spider V3 is compatible with whatever thermistor options are compiled in. Not sure about compiling firmware not within my wheelhouse. I can and have compiled more than a few programs in my time, including Linux kernels... But that is kind of irrelevant to the discussion at hand. Anyway Thermistor issue not withstanding, now my extruder stepper motor doesn't appear to be doing anything, and I mean 100% nada. Not sure if it is firmware, stepper motor went bad, mainboard got zapped or what... |
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Very interesting. I thought you didn't change the extruder, motherboard and wires. Another hotend does not seem to imply changes in the exruder part 🤔 |
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I haven't touched the extruder, I ran the wires for the hotend, and BLTouch using a piece of filament and a good number of wraps of electrical tape to act as a chinese finger trap for the wires, and to shield the other wiring from it. No signs of damage to any wires, nothing lose on the mainboard or at the extruder. I SERIOUSLY doubt it is a bad extruder stepper motor, which leaves me with a mainboard. or firmware. I could test this but I would need to know what pin is + and what pin is - at what voltage on the coupler. A little bit or probing with the multimeter to see if the stepper motor is getting power. |
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Well, the diagram itself is simple: pairs 1-4 and 3-6 Voltage... I don't think it matters, these motors run on current, so just presence will do.*
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Looking at the diagram on the 4 pin molex, Black 1 is A, Green 2 is A, Red 3 is B, and Blue 4 is B. On the six pin Black A is on 1, Green A is 4, Red B is 3 Blue B is 6. The question is what are wires A and B? Wouldn't it be AB and AB so 1/3 and 4/6? I get voltage across what would be 1/3 but nothing across 1/4, 3/6, or 4/6. |
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The wires are really rearranged that way. A (1, 4) is one winding, B (3, 6) is the second winding.
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since you have already made sure that there are no dangerous voltages in this wire, then you have nothing to lose and you can check two options:
interesting results |
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Move Z wire to extruder, run auto home and extruder runs, Run extruder wire to Z stepper and try to load / unload filament stepper does nothing. Process of elimination, This has GOT to be either the cable for the extruder, or the mainboard. This begs the question of where to source up the parts for a bottom dollar printer... |
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Well, checking the cable with a multimeter is easy - you already have a pinout Let's hope you just broke the wire. Otherwise: https://aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-creality-4.2.7-motherboard.html |
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Yep. It is already after midnight though. Back on it tomorrow... Check the pins and verify, fix if possible, if not, off to Aliexpress I go... Bleh... What would you call the ribbon cable and which firmware would I use with the Creality board? |
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I'm using Aquila_427_UBL-ProUI-EX-IS-MPC, you can throw out IS if you don't want to bother with Input Shaping. But let's hope it's just a cable. Like this: |
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As always with AliExpress, you will have to carefully check whether they have plugged the wires into the connectors correctly. Thank goodness it’s easy to rearrange them 😄 |
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So to avoid the inevitable and even if not needed spare parts are a good thing to have on hand, went ahead and ordered the board and 4 of the wires. I noticed they had the 2M length, 1M is a bit short if I want to do the direct drive conversion, which is on my loist of things to do to make my printer easier to live with... I figure it would be easier to minimizing how many more times I need to get into the cover. The idea is when they come in, verify the pin outs, swap in the new wire, test, if test fails, swap board and flash new firmware... |
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Rational decision. Marlin also has a Fixed Time Motion system with its Linear Advance and other shapers. It doesn't work at the moment, but if it ever does work, it's unlikely to work on the original board - again, there's not enough memory there.
oh yes - 4.2.7 has different screw holes, so I printed this thing in advance, before disassembling the printer 😄 |
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And I must note that I could not find the display for Aquila on AliExpress. 😢 |
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when I first installed my 427 board, I was greeted with beeping and black screen. I dont know if it had firmware previously installed on it or not, but I think I just went to flashing it right away. so the issue was the board grounding to the frame. it triggered some over temp or something like that. So I unmounted it and had it sort of hanging and then tried turning it on again, everything worked fine was normal. I thought I had a bad board but it was something to do with grounding. I mean, I think what happened was the metal around the USB/sdcard slots was touching the printer and somehow grounding. I put electrical tape or liquid electrical tape on where I think it was touching and didnt get that beeping/black screen. another issue I had once was I replaced one of my stepper motors. of course you shouldn't plug/unplug the motors when theres power going through. so when I first was testing it out, it made this awful grinding noise. i shut it down right away and wondered what the hell that was. apparently, not all stepper motors are the same. I ended up swapping two of the wires around (forgot which, it was one of the pairs) and that fixed it. if anything hopefully its just one of the wires for @dbhosttexas , maybe you mentioned this but checking continuity between the wires would give a clue. |
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@yrabbit I believe that https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802475742174.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt might be what you are looking for display wise... @classicrocker883 My Aquila X3 Max is doing its thing just fine right now, so putting the regular aquila on a back burner until Aliexpress delivery comes in. Just going to verify wires line up right and swap cables and then test. If it is good, it is good we move forward. If it is still not talking to the stepper motor then we swap boards, and I will be ready for it. And if it isn't I will be ready with spare parts for down the road. Most of the prints I am working on right now are too large for a regular aquila anyway... The suggestion about liquid electrical tape is probably a very good one. Will keep that in mind. Need a new can of the stuff anyway. Mine is old and set up in the can... |
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@dbhosttexas |
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If this is already supported please ignore. But I have a freshly installed Spider V3 full metal hotend and due to some flaky data / temp probe issues with the prior Creality thermistor I used the Thermistor that came with the Spider kit. I have read reports here and there that say this thermistor is not know to work, and not known to not work whatever that means. Creality's marketing copy says no modification necessary on the Ender 3, so I assume the thermistor reports the same as the stock one from the original but I could be wrong. And their marketing stuff is not entirely relevant to a Voxelab Aquila as it doesn't fit under the stock fan shroud...
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